MUSEUMS IN GREECE'S SECOND LARGEST CITY

Today was a museum and city tour day in Thessaloniki, Greece's second largest city, and in the province of Macedonia.  There is also a country of Macedonia to the north, next to Bulgaria.

The museums did a very a good of taking a visitor from the early civilizations to modern day.  This part of Greece was a natural trade route between Asia Minor (Turkey) and the rest of Europe and has had a lot influential visitors/conquerors.

The area's claim to fame began  around the time of Alexander the Great, a Macedonian who conquered the Persian Empire and pushed as far east as Pakistan or India, and south to Egypt.

The museum is famous for their Macedonian gold collection of this period.  Primitive goldsmith work, but impressive.

Conquered by Rome, the area enjoyed the Pax Romana and was an important trade route in the Empire.  There are still some buildings from this period, although changed along the way to suit whom ever was in charge.

  The Rotunda building for example, was first designed as a mausoleum for a Roman big shot, but as Christianity grew, the building became a church presumably Romanesque, then shifted to a Byzantine church as Rome's influence waned and Constantinople's grew, then when the Ottomans took over, of course it became a mosque.  When the Greeks threw out the Turks, it became a church again, but it is in rough shape.  It is like a lady that has too many face lifts, but lucky to be alive.

As Rome fell, Latin was no longer used and the Byzantine empire became more Greek.  There was also the split in the church, Greek Orthodox int he East and Roman Catholic in the West, although   I am sure it was still the same God.

Around the time Columbus was discovering America, the Ottomans were taking over Greece and trying to push on to Vienna and take over the rest of Europe, or at least as much as they could get.

The picture is of the White Tower, an Ottoman contribution to the city's landscape and no longer white, is remembered for a massacre of Christian young men who were forced to convert to Islam and serve the Sultan.

Sometimes the tour books say that Islam was respectful of other religions and did not try to forcibly convert others, i.e Jews, Christians and Muslims lived in peace,  Yet other times there are massacres if population did convert.  To keep this in its proper historical perspective, there are also plenty of Christian to Muslim atrocities.  In any event the White Tower, previously free, now charges three Euros to go up.  There were few takers.

In the East, and I am not sure why, icons became the big thing.  Roman Catholic churches, perhaps keeping the Roman love of statues kept statues of the saints while the Orthodox church really liked icons.  The museum has an extensive collection.   The one shown is a post byzantine work--after the fall of Constantiple.

While a Madonna and child is a typical portrayal, the breast feeding is not seen as often.

I may be off line for a day or so.  Tomorrow, Friday October 25; I fly to Girona, Spain.  It is north of Barcelona and  near the French border.  My plans are to head to the South of France for a a week or two.  If it gets too expensive, then I will head south back to Spain, probably Valencia.

Snow White night lights are protected  Spiderman on a busy Thessaloniki sidewalk.  Square pants whatever and other character add to the collection, but it is Snow White with her lighted gown that shows off.

 

METEORA

Made it to Kalanbaka, but not on the bus. This time I chose the train as a nice change. It  had bathrooms, a snack car and you could walk around a bit. It was about like our Amtrak.Kalanbaka is the larger town in area called Meteroa, famous for its unique rock formations.

Meteora is derived from the Greek meteoros, meaning suspended in air , and the English word  meteor is from the same root. Perhaps more interesting is that about 26 monestaries were built on these rock formations, primarily as bastions for the monks to escape the bloodshed as the Byzantine empire was collapsing and other peoples were moving in. These inaccessible fortresses allowed the monks to safely pursue their peaceful monastic lives.   The area has six or so surviving monasteries and is a UN World Heritage site.

However the monasteries of old is not really what you see today.  The monasteries have been modernized over the years.  Yes the Meteora is still wonderful but roads have been put in and steps have been carved in the rocks to allow visitors. The monks now use cable cars to get across the from the road to the monastery.  The restorations went overboard and really have been a rehab, much as you would take a Victorian house and modernize it.  I wanted to see monks and lots of them hauling up supplies with a donkey via a rope, or better still locking up the place to defend it from a bus load of tourists.  Some blood on a rock would have been nice.  Today there are only a few monks choosing to live on a big isolated rock visted by tourists.  I can't say I blame them.

I went to the more isolated monastery for great views of the other monasteries.  I could see four of the six and was on the fifth.  It was a moderate  isolated hike through a gorge and hike up to the rock.  I hiked up from the valley floor village where I am staying to the top of the rock where the monastery was built.  It was about the hikes I do blueberry picking.

 For the lazy and infirmed, the buses bring the tourists on the road who have to walk a path and climb 125 steps up.   I show  a couple of my pics but the area deserves many more.  And below are lots of them on two links for you to enjoy.  It is another side of Greece very different from the Acropolis and isles such as Santorini and Mykynos that we are used to seeing .

https://www.google.com/search?q=meteora+images&espv=210&es_sm=93&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=6SdnUr_hIMO50QXlnIBg&ved=0CCsQsAQ&biw=1366&bih=656


These are Gabriele's photos of the Meteora.

http://www.lovethesepics.com/2011/02/mystical-magical-magnificent-monasteries-in-meteora-20-pics/

HOTEL AND FELLOW TRAVELER

The hotel was great and run by two savvy women.  Would stay here again.  Met up with Steve a fellow traveller who, although it is hard to believe, is more thrifty than I am.  He does couch surfing to cut down on hotel bills.  I had heard of it, but thought it was just for the young who don't care where they sleep.  He is about my age,   still smarting from a divorce but getting over it with a Russian girl friend who is younger than my children.  Got suggestions for the South of France.  He leads a travel group there yearly, but apparently this is not a couch surfing trip.


IZMIR REVISITED

Izmir, the coastal Turkish city from which I flew to Athens, is not particularly memorable.  However the taxi ride to the airport was. The shuttle bus was running late and four of us plus the driver, plus luggage fit into the taxi. We had three Turks, two Chinese women working in the Sudan, and me. The story of the Chines women is interesting. They are in the travel industry. The Chinese, I have heard, are investing heavily in Africa for both natural resources and construction projects. This brings Chinese to Africa. The Chines travel agents, work in the Sudan presumably arranging travel for the many Chinese in the Sudan. The Turkish man has lived and worked in Bangor, Maine; and South Africa. He was heading to Rome on business. We split the taxi and paid the same price as the shuttle bus and all have a more interesting memory of an otherwise bland airport trip.

A couple more days in Greece, then head to the Barcelona area.  Think I will stay put a bit longer in one place, probably Avignon, but could head down to Vallencia.

BACK IN ATHENS

This is what is left of Hadrian's Library in Athens.  I don't think I posted it, choosing to show you Turkish newly weds, but back in Antalya, Turkey, there was a Hadrian's Gate.    I also vaguely remember there is/was a Hadrian's wall in Britain built to protect Roman Engalnd and Wales from the Picts of Scotland.  In any event, apparently Hadrain was popular as  Martin Luther King and had lots of things with his  name.

I am back in Athens six months later.  The economy seems a bit better.  I went back to my favorite gyro place and wolfed down another one.  It was as good as I remember.  The cook said the potatoes (frech fries) cooked in the Corinth style make the difference.  I would have liked to have another for lunch tomorrow but I will be on my way.

I decided to by pass the Peloponese Peninsulas or the more touristy islands.  I did not want to see anymore piles of rock, at Mycene, Delphi, or the site of the first Olympics.  I want to see rocks that are still in some sort of shape to actually make  a building or parts there of.  Travelling 5,000 miles to  just imagine the building from its foundations doesn't cut it.  The islands would have been nice , but take more time to do them justice and things are starting to close down on the islands , although the weather is still very good.

I am going to do some hiking and see stuff that is still standing.  Tomorrow I take the train from Athens to Kalambuka in northen Greece to see spectacular monestaries,  and one nunnery.  I am not sure if the nunnery is originally a nunnery or a monestary now being used by nuns.  These places of meditation and worship were  built on high rocks for protection as the  Ottoman invasion of Greece unfolded.  They were instrumental in preserving Greek culture.

Below are some things I saw today:  a pretty church steeple near central Athens, the Nike (Victory gate), and the Acropolis.  It was nice to be back in Athens.

.

BIRTHDAY BUS

Thanks to all of you for so many birthday emails and electronic cards.  I will see the mailed cards you sent, when I get home around Thansgiving, so it will be a birthday/Thanksgiving card.

For my birthday I treated myself to a Kamil Coc bus ride from Antalya to Izmir to catch my flight to Athens.  The steward on the bus remembered my birthday with a glazed birthday cookie.  Attending my surpise bus birthday party were about 40 other souls with whom I could not talk to, but seemed happy enough to be on my birthday bus.


BAD GIRL MANNEQUIN

I  saw this mannequin, appropriately wearing her head scarf but taking a hint from the Scandinavians and going topless.   The other mannequins look on disapprovingly.

 Leaving a topless mannequin in the window  is not a correct thing to do in Turkey.  But perhaps she is a rebellious "bad girl" mannequin.

This "bad girl" mannequin reminded me of my head scarf story from my last trip to Istanbul.    , I saw a young woman with a head scarf.  Wearing a head scarf connotes a certain sense of modesty.  However this young lady was also wearing a very, very tight blouse, and the jeans were tight also.  My sense was that it mattered little that she wore a head scarf, since she was a well-endowed woman, attention immediately went to her chest.  I thought that the head scarf would have been put to better use to cover her size "D" girls.  Do they make a scarf for the breasts, or is that what a burka is for???

HAPPY ANNIVERSARIES

Best wishes to Sherry and Mario and Anna and Dan.  I was reminded , in seeing  many brides during my Saturday walk in the park.  There were seeing  at least six different couples.  Here is a sampling, of looking into each other's eyes, the flyaway veil, and the bunny holding couple.  Is bunny holding at a wedding ceremony   a Turkish custom to suggest having many children, remembering the breed like rabbits expression???.

CHANGE OF PLANS

I had planned to visit Croatia, but this has not worked out.  It is difficult and/or expensive to get to Dubrovnik from Corfu (Greece); and the ferries from Bari and Brindisi in Italy may not be running to Dubrovnik, perhaps having shut down for the winter.  It is the rainy season in the Adriatic and it seems not enough people travel the route to keep it open.

I opted to fly to Athens.  Spend a few days in central and northern Greece , before flying out from Thessaloniki to Girona, Spain which is near Barcelona and the French border.

ANATOLIAN PLATEAU TO MEDITERRANEAN COAST

KONYA

Left Cappedocia (GOREME) just ahead of the wind and rain.  Bad to stay , especially if you were staying in cave.

 Stopped overnight to rest up and look around in Konya of Selcuk fame and near the the end of the long Silk Road route.  Lost of pics but here is a muslim cemetery with Mevlana's tomb/museum/mosque in the background.  He is the founder of an old regious sect, still active and also known as "whirling Dervishes".Atuturk reduced their power after the founding of the Turkish republic, but this religeion/sect had great influence with Selcuk Ottoman.

Traveling to Turkey's resort coast on the Mediterranean, I  selected Antalya, a city used by many civilizations. Passing theough the high plateau and mountains saw fall leaves on scrubby trees and melting snow from bus window.

 As an aside, on the Turkish buses, the boys sit with the boys and the girls with the girls.  Unrelated/unknown persons of the opposite sex may not sit with one another, although this may be waived for foreigners.  Married people, family members, ect may sit together.



Antalya is nice and Turkey's sunny coastline is headed to becoming like Spain's Costa Del Sol.  Met some Brits who bought a house near MArmaris on the last trip.

Here is the view of the old Roman harbor.

CIAO